It's finally starting to actually feel like fall here in Arizona and my kids are VERY excited for Halloween. My youngest is especially enamored with all the decorations we see out and about. So when she requested that I make her a friendly pumpkin friend, I knew how happy it would make her and couldn't resist whipping one up for her. Since I made the pattern anyway, why not share it on the blog? I know it's somewhat last minute, but this little plushy works up quickly with minimal sewing (the head, body, and legs are all one piece), so there's still time if you want to make one. Or there's always next year (or maybe you're one of those people who celebrates Halloween all year long—whatever works). Either way, I hope you enjoy this new free crochet pattern! If you're already familiar with my Cookie Pal patterns, you'll be able to quickly spot that this pattern is just another variation on those. I changed the head, but the body is mostly constructed in the same way. So if you find that you have any trouble crocheting the body (with the legs, especially), I encourage you to check out the step-by-step photos for Beverly the Bear, which will walk you through the whole process. I also added some new accessories: a stem and a leaf collar. The stem is sewed on, but like other Cookie Pal accessories, the leaf collar can come on and off, so you can use it to dress up any of the Cookie Pals. Similarly, any of the Cookie Pal accessories that fit on the body (boots, skirt, basket, etc) will also fit on this Pumpkin Pal, so you can easily dress this cutie up any way you'd like. Let's get started with the pattern! And remember, you can reference step-by-step photos for the body and legs of the pattern for Beverly the Bear if you get confused at any point. If you'd like an ad-free printable PDF version of this pattern, you can find one on Ravelry. It includes both a step-by-step photo version and a text only version of the pattern for simpler printing. Stitch Glossary: st(s) = stitch(es) ch = chain ss = slip stitch sc = single crochet inc = sc increase (work 2 sc in the same st) dec = sc decrease (decrease over 2 sc sts) hdc = half double crochet dc = double crochet tr = treble (triple) crochet dtr = double treble crochet Materials:
Gauge: 2" = 10 sc sts 2" = 10.5 rows of sc Note: Unless otherwise specified, this pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining or turning. I recommend using a stitch marker and moving it after each round to help you keep your place. Body: Using the orange yarn: Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle, pull taut to close (6) Round 2: inc 6 times (12) Round 3: [inc, sc] 6 times (18) Round 4: [sc, inc, sc] 6 times (24) Round 5: [inc, sc in the next 3 sts] 6 times (30) Round 6: [sc in the next 2 sts, inc, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (36) Round 7: [inc, sc in the next 5 sts] 6 times (42) Round 8: sc around (42) Round 9: [sc in the next 3 sts, inc, sc in the next 3 sts] 6 times (48) Round 10: sc around (48) Round 11: [inc, sc in the next 7 sts] 6 times (54) We're going to add two stitch markers to the next round to help you differentiate which side of the head is the front and which is the back, since it's completely round. Once you place the two markers, leave them there until you finish stitching on the face to make sure everything lines up correctly. (You can continue to move your third stitch marker after each round to help you keep your place in the pattern.) Round 12: place one stitch marker, sc in the next 33 sts, place another stitch marker, sc in the next 21 sts (54) Rounds 13-16: sc around (54) Round 17: [dec, sc in the next 7 sts] 6 times (48) Round 18: sc around (48) Round 19: [sc in the next 3 sts, dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 6 times (42) Round 20: sc around (42) Round 21: [dec, sc in the next 5 sts] 6 times (36) Let's pause crocheting here and add on the face. Place a stitch marker through the loop on your hook to hold your place while you decorate. The stitch markers you placed in Round 12 will help you out here. You'll notice that the markers divide the head into a larger section (33 sts) and a smaller section (21 sts). The larger section is the front of the head and the smaller section is the back. So you'll want to center the face between the two stitch markers on the front of the head. Place the 6 mm safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12, about 5 stitches apart. Using the tapestry needle and black yarn, stitch the mouth, nose, and eyebrows. I stitched the mouth across rounds 15-17 and and the triangle nose across rounds 13-14. Or feel free to personalize the face with any expression you'd like. Begin stuffing the head and continue to stuff as you go. Remove the stitch marker and the place the yarn loop back on your hook so that you can resume crocheting. Round 22: [sc in the next 2 sts, dec, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (30) Round 23: [dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 6 times (24) Round 24: [sc, dec, sc] 6 times (18) Switch to the green yarn Round 25: [sc, inc, sc] 6 times (24) Round 26: [inc, sc in the next 3 sts] 6 times (30) Round 27: [sc in the next 2 sts, inc, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (36) Rounds 28-35: sc around (36) Round 36: [sc in the next 2 sts, dec, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (30) Now we’re going to start forming the legs. Please pay careful attention to your stitch count as you go to ensure that both legs end up the same size. Round 37: sc in the next 14 sts, skip the next 15 sts, sc in the last st (15) Note: Once you finish the first 14 sts, you should be centered in the front of the pumpkin. If you find that the face is slightly more to one side than the other, you can shift the stitches here to compensate (ex: sc in the first 13, skip the next 15, sc in the last 2). If it helps, you can mark the center stitch first. As long as you have 15 sts for each leg, the pattern will work. Rounds 38-41: sc around (15) Round 42: [dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times (12) Round 43: dec 6 times (12) Finish stuffing leg. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining sts and pull taut to close. Now it’s time to make the second leg using the sts we skipped back in round 37. Join the yarn (I like to join mine centered on the back side). There are a couple different options for starting the leg. I’m going to walk you through both and you can choose whichever you prefer. First, the easiest option: Leg Round 1: ss, sc in the next 14 sts (make sure you don’t crochet into the side of the first leg; you only want to use the 15 sts you skipped in round 37), sc into the ss you just made (15) You’ll notice that this leaves a small hole between the legs. You can easily sew this shut later with the yarn tail leftover from the end of the leg and no one will ever notice it. Leg Rounds 2-5: sc around (15) Leg Round 6: [dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times (12) Continue to stuff the leg. Leg Round 7: dec 6 times (12) Finish stuffing leg. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining sts and pull taut to close. OR if you’re like me and are determined to sew as little as possible, you can use this second option for making the other leg: Leg Round 1: ss, begin to sc in the next 14 sts. Once you reach the side of the other leg, pick up several loops along the side of the leg by inserting your hook, yarning over, and pulling up a loop. Leave all the loops on your hook. Then insert your hook in the next stitch where you actually want to make a sc, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through all of the loops on your hook to finish the st. Then sc around in the remaining sts and make your last sc into the ss you made at the beginning of the round (15) This will close up the gap between the legs so that you won’t need to sew it shut later. And the rest of the leg is the same from here: Leg Rounds 2-5: sc around (15) Leg Round 6: [dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times (12) Continue to stuff the leg. Leg Round 7: dec 6 times (6) Finish stuffing leg. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining sts and pull taut to close. Arm (Make 2): Using the green yarn: Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle, pull taut to close (6) Round 2: inc 6 times (12) Round 3: sc around (12) Round 4: [dec, sc] 4 times (8) Rounds 5-7: sc around (8) Begin stuffing. Continue to stuff as you go. Round 8: [dec, sc in the next 2 sts] 2 times (6) Round 9: sc around (6) Finish stuffing. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining sts and pull taut to close. Then sew one arm to each side of the body somewhere around rounds 25-28. Stem: Using the green yarn: Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle, pull taut to close, ss to first sc (6) Round 2: ch1, inc 6 times, ss to join (12) Round 3: working in the back loop only: ch 1, sc around, ss to join (12) Round 4: ch 1, sc around, ss to join (12) Optional vine: ch 12, sc twice in the second ch from the hook, sc twice in each of the remaining 10 ch, ss to the stem to join Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the stem and sew to the top of the pumpkin (across rounds 1-2) using the tapestry needle and the yarn tail. Leaf Collar: Note: if you find that you want a longer string for tying the collar on, feel free to add more stitches to both ends. Using the green yarn: Ch 46 Row 1: ss in the 2nd ch from the hook, ss in the next 14 sts, *ch 6, ss in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, skip the next ch, ss to join*, **ch 7, ss in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, skip the next ch, ss to join**, repeat from ** to **, ch 9, ss in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc, dc, tr, dtr, tr, dc, hdc, skip the next 2 ch, ss to join, repeat from ** to ** two times, repeat from * to * once, ss in the next 15 sts Fasten off and weave in ends. And you're all done! I hope that you enjoyed making this Pumpkin Pal plushy and that you have a fun and safe Halloween (for anyone who celebrates)! If you have any questions or comments about this pattern, you can reach me in the comments section below, or you can send me an email or reach out on social media. And, if you end up making one, I'd love to see how it turns out! Happy hooking! Want to make sure you don't miss any future blog posts? Join my mailing list! (Spam-free, I promise!) ***You're welcome to do whatever you'd like to with finished products made from this pattern but if you do sell them, I ask that you link back to my page. You may not copy this pattern, repost it anywhere (either altered or in its original form), or claim it as your own. You may not use any photos on this site for your own use. ***
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