Arm (Make 2):
​Note: The arm is made in a continuous round, so I recommend using a stitch marker to keep your place. 

​Using the Charcoal yarn and the F hook:
Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle (6)
Round 2: inc around (12)
Round 3: sc around (12)
​Switch to Magenta yarn
Round 4: sc around (12)
Round 5: [dec, sc in the next 4 sts] around (10)
Round 6:  sc around (10)
Round 7: [dec, sc in the next 3 sts] around (8)
Rounds 8-9: sc around (8)
Begin stuffing the arm. Continue to stuff as you go. 
Round 10: [dec, sc in the next 2 sts] around (6)
Round 11: sc around (6)
Ss to even off the round, and fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Finish stuffing. Using the tapestry needle, pull the long yarn tail through the front loops of the last round and pull taut to close off the opening. 

Face:
Note: The picture features eyes and a mouth sewn on with the Magenta yarn; I later changed these to black yarn for the final version and moved the mouth to the opposite side 
Using the Charcoal yarn and the F hook:
Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle (6)
Round 2: inc around (12)
Round 3: [sc, inc] 6 times (18)
Round 4: [sc in the next 2 sts, inc] 6 times (24)
Round 5: *inc, hdc, dc 3 times in the next st, hdc, sc*, repeat from * to *, [inc, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times, ss in the last 2 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing

Using the black yarn and the tapestry needle, stitch on the eyes and mouth. I used french knots for the eyes  (between rounds 3 and 4) and straight stitch for the mouth (between rounds 4 and 5). Using a bit of Charcoal yarn, stitch the nose back and forth 3-4 times across round 1 (or as many times as needed to get the look you want). 

Head:
Note: The head is worked in a continuous round, so I recommend using a stitch marker to keep your place.

​Using the Magenta yarn and the F hook:
​Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle (6)
Round 2: inc around (12)
Round 3: [inc, sc] 6 times (18)
Round 4: [sc, inc, sc] 6 times (24)
Round 5: sc around (24)
Round 6: [inc, sc in the next 3 sts] 6 times (30)
Round 7: sc around (30)
Round 8: [sc in the next 2 sts. inc, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (36)
Rounds 9-11: sc around (36)
Round 12: [sc in the next 2 sts, dec, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (30)
Round 13: sc around (30)
Round 14: [sc in the next 3 sts, dec] 6 times (24)
Round 15: sc around (24)
I  recommend pausing here to sew on the face (across rounds 5-24) and ears (across round 6-10), but if you prefer you can sew them on at the end once the head is finished. 
Round 16: [sc, dec, sc] 6 times (18)
Begin stuffing. Continue to stuff as you go. 
Round 17: [sc, dec] 6 times (12)
Round 18: dec 6 times (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Finish stuffing. Using the tapestry needle, pull the yarn tail through the front loops of the last round and pull taut to close the hole. 

The construction for the turtle is pretty simple: First you'll make the shell with one color, then you'll switch colors to make the underside of the turtle, leaving holes for the legs, head, and tail. You'll crochet the appendages directly into the holes and then you'll be done! I used safety eyes for mine since I felt too lazy to embroider anything, but you're welcome to stitch on eyes or add a mouth if you prefer. I'm betting it will be adorable either way. Let's get started!

If you're interested in an ad-free printable PDF version of this pattern, you can find one on Ravelry. A special thank you to everyone who supports my blog and keeps it running!

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology
Stitch Glossary:
st(s) = stitch(es)
ch = chain
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = sc increase (work 2 sc into the same st)
dec = sc decrease (I prefer to use an invisible decrease st)
rsc = reverse single crochet (aka crab stitch)
BLO = back loop only

Materials:

• 13 yds (7 g) of I Love This Yarn! in Blue Green Multi
• 24 yds (13 g) of I Love This Cotton! Yarn in Sage
• Size E (3.5 mm) crochet hook
• 2 (6.0 mm) safety eyes
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker

Note: This pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining. I recommend using a stitch marker and moving it after each round to help you keep your place.

​Shell:
​Start with the Blue Green Multi yarn
Round 1: make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle (6)
Round 2: inc 6 times (12)
Round 3: [sc, inc] 6 times (18)
Round 4: sc around (18)
Round 5: [sc, inc, sc] 6 times (24)
Round 6: [sc in the next 3 sts, inc] 6 times (30)
Rounds 7-8: ​sc around (30)

Round 9: ss to next st, rsc around (30)
Fasten off. If you'd like, you can use the tapestry needle and the yarn tail to even off the end of the rsc round. 

Body:
Switch to the Sage yarn. Turn the shell so that the wrong side is facing you 
Round 1: working around the posts of Round 8 of the shell, sc around (30)

Round 2: sc around (30)
Round 3: ch 2, skip the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts, [ch 3, skip the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts] 4 times, ch 3, skip the next 3 sts, sc in the next st, dec (5 holes + 12 sc)
Round 4: sc in the BLO of the next 2 ch, dec, [sc in the BLO of the next 3 ch, dec] 5 times (22)
Begin stuffing. Continue to stuff as you go.
Round 5: [sc, dec] 7 times, dec (15)
Round 6: [dec, sc] 5 times (10)
Round 7: dec 5 times (5)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Finish stuffing. Using the tapestry needle, pull the yarn tail through the front loops of the last round and pull taut to close the hole. You should now have a finished body with 6 empty spaces for adding the head, legs, and tail. 

Head:
Use the Sage yarn and work into the central ch-3 space
Round 1: sc 6 times evenly around the hole (6)
Round 2: sc around (6)
Round 3: inc 6 times (12)
Round 4: [inc, sc] 6 times (18)
Rounds 5-7: sc around (18)
Round 8: [dec, sc] 6 times (12)
Pause and add the safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8
Round 9: dec 6 times (6)
​Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Stuff the head. Using the tapestry needle, pull the yarn tail through the front loops of the last round and pull taut to close the hole.

Tail:
Use the Sage yarn and work into the smallest ch-2 space (opposite the head)
Round 1: sc 4 times evenly around the hole (4)
Round 2: sc around (4)
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. (No need to stuff the tail.) Using the tapestry needle, pull the yarn tail through the front loops of the last round and pull taut to close the hole.

Leg (make 4):
Use the Sage yarn and work into one of the remaining ch-3 spaces
Round 1: sc 6 times evenly around the hole (6)
Round 2: [inc, sc in the next 2 sts] 2 times (8)
Round 3: [sc, inc] 4 times (12)
Round 4: sc around (12)
Round 5: working in BLO, dec 6 times (6)
Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Stuff the leg. Using the tapestry needle, pull the yarn tail through the front loops of the last round and pull taut to close the hole.

Weave in any remaining ends. 

You did it! You've now made your own Tiny Turtle friend. 

I hope that you enjoyed this free crochet pattern! If you have any comments or questions about this pattern, you can reach me in the comments section below, by email, or on social media and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. And, of course, I always love seeing what you make, so feel free to share a picture if you end up making one. Happy hooking!

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This pattern is extremely no-frills. It's all made in one piece (no sewing!) without any complicated stitches or shaping. As the name would imply, it's basically a super round squishy cat. But it's oh so cute. The most difficult part of this pattern is adding the face, but there are multiple different ways to make it happen depending on whether you're Team Safety Eyes or Team Embroidery. You can customize the face with more details or leave it totally basic. Either way, you can make a super cute cat in no time! I can make one of these cuties from start to finish in about an hour.  And to make it even easier, I've included lots of step-by-step photos to help you as you make your way through the pattern. But feel free to contact me if you still have questions about anything. 

This crochet pattern is a great way to use up little balls of scrap yarn. Depending on what yarn you use, you'll get slightly different results (a bulkier yarn will give you a bigger cat, etc). I made all of mine with different worsted weight scrap yarns, but if you wanted to use a different weight yarn, it's definitely doable. You can just swap your hook size accordingly and go for it! This pattern is pretty forgiving. You just might want to change the size of the safety eyes you use if you decide to go big, to keep it more proportional. 

Now the real question is: what will you do with your soon-to-be army of Marshmallow Cats? Personally, I'm planning to leave them places for people to find. Hopefully they can bring a smile to someone out there. If you have a plan for what you'll do with yours, I'd love to hear it! But for now, let's check out the pattern. 

If you're interested in an ad-free printable PDF version of this pattern, you can find one on Ravelry. A special thank you to everyone who supports my blog and keeps it running!

This pattern is written using US crochet terminology
Stitch Glossary:
st(s) = stitch(es)
ch = chain
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = sc increase (work 2 sc into the same st)
dec = sc decrease (I prefer to use an invisible decrease st)
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
FLO = front loop only
BLO = back loop only

Materials:

• About 30 yds (17 g) of worsted weight yarn (for this example, I used I Love This Yarn! in Blossomopolis)
• A little bit of black scrap yarn
• Size E (3.5 mm) crochet hook
• 2 (6.0 mm) safety eyes
• Fiberfill stuffing
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker

Note: This pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining. I recommend using a stitch marker and moving it after each round to help you keep your place.

Round 1: make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle (6)
Round 2: inc 6 times (12)
Round 3: [sc, inc] 6 times (18)
Round 4: sc around (18)
Round 5: [sc, inc, sc] 6 times (24)
Round 6: [sc in the next 3 sts, inc] 6 times (30)
Round 7: *ch 4, ss in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the 3rd ch, hdc in the 4th ch, skip the next st*, sc in the next 4 sts, repeat from * to *, sc in the next 24 sts (2 triangle ears + 28 sts)

Round 8: *working behind the ear you made in round 7, hdc in the skipped st from round 7*, sc in the next 4 sts, repeat from * to *, sc in the next 9 sts, **in FLO, work (hdc, 2 dc, hdc) in the next st**, sc in the next 5 sts, repeat from ** to **, sc in the next 8 sts (36)

Round 9: *sc in the next 15 sts, skip the (hdc, 2 dc, hdc) from round 8, hdc in BLO from round 8*, sc in the next 5 sc sts, repeat from * to *, sc in the next 8 sts (30)

Rounds 10-14: sc around (30)
Round 15: sc in the next 17 sts, *in FLO, work (hdc, 2 dc, hdc) in the next st*, sc in the next 5 sts, repeat from * to *, sc in the next 6 sts (36)
Round 16:​ *sc in the next 17 sts, skip the (hdc, 2 dc, hdc) from round 15, hdc in BLO from round 15*, sc in the next 5 sc sts, repeat from * to *, sc in the next 6 sts (30)
Round 17: sc around (30)
Pause crocheting and add the face. Using the black yarn and the tapestry needle, stitch back and forth across the bottom of Round 1 four times to make the nose. The stitch the mouth below the nose and stitch whiskers on each side of the nose. Place the safety eyes between rounds 3 and 4 or stitch on eyes if you prefer to embroider them. Now resume crocheting.

Round 18: [sc in the next 3 sts, dec] 6 times (24)
Round 19: [sc in the next 2 sts, dec] 6 times (18)
Round 20: sc around (18)
Begin stuffing and continue to stuff as you go (I don't usually stuff the end of the tail, but you can if you want to)
Round 21: [sc, dec] 6 times (12)
Round 22: dec, sc in the next 4 sts, dec 3 times (8)
Round 23: sc around (8)
Round 24: sc in the next 6 sts, dec (7)
Rounds 25-26: sc around (7)
Round 27: dec, sc in the next 5 sts (6)
Rounds 28-29: sc around (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Finish stuffing. Using the tapestry needle, pull the yarn tail through the front loops of the last round and pull taut to close the hole. 

And now you have your very own Marshmallow Cat! I hope that you enjoy this pattern as much as I do and that this little cat brings a smile to your face today! In case anyone else is interested in the pun-tastic little note I added to the cats before leaving them for people to find around town, here's a PDF version of the tags you can use as well.

It's no secret that I get bored with repetitive blankets, which is why I usually stick to small baby blankets. But I am definitely too big for a baby blanket, so I needed something much larger that would still keep my attention. When I came across A Modern Guide to Granny Squares by Celine Semaan and Leonie Morgan, I knew it would be perfect for this project. 

This book is really fun because it has 40 different square designs. Some are very simple, some are pretty complicated. But they're all fun, colorful designs. And that makes my yarn-loving heart oh so happy. Ergo, I decided to make a blanket by combining one of each square from the book! 

While it would have looked really nice, I knew that I would have lost patience with making the same square 40 times, so making each square unique was way more fun for me. It really enjoyed trying out so many different designs; some of them are extremely clever, so major kudos to Celine and Leonie for this brilliant book! (And no, they're not sponsoring me in any way, I just came across the book and loved it.) 

The biggest hurdle to this project was making all of the different squares work together. I decided to pick a color palette and stick to it. I went with a rainbow theme and used I Love This Yarn! in Red, Mango, Desert Glaze, Lemon Ice, Buttercup, Sungold, Yellow, Keylime, Peacock, Purple, White, and Black. I used less than 1 skein of each color except for the white, which used 2 skeins (and I barely used black, so I had a ton leftover). I had to adjust the colors from the ones used in the original pattern to make some of the squares work, but I think they still look great. I also prioritized making squares where the color mattered more (like the rainbow or the watermelon) first, so that I could then make the squares where the individual colors were more flexible with whatever color yarn I had more of. That way I wouldn't run out of any color I needed before I finished.  

Another tricky aspect of working with so many designs was getting them all the same size. The book patterns used a thinner yarn and a smaller hook, but theoretically all were the same size. So I tried to match their gauge by using the same weight yarn for every color and sizing up my hooks by an equivalent amount. I used an I, J, and K hook, corresponding to the smallest, medium, and largest hooks used in the book. This worked out pretty well and almost every square ended up being the same size (or very close to the same size). Two of the squares ended up being too big, so I adjusted the pattern to remove a row, and a few were too small, so I added extra rows. But the end result was 40 squares that are approximately the same size. Win! 

I should confess that one of my squares isn't one from the book; there was one square that I just really didn't like, so I swapped it out for a square that I made up as I went. If you're wondering, I  substituted a single granny square heart in the middle of red and purple granny stripes (it should be right above this block of text if the internet gods are pleased with me today) for the one I didn't want to make. That way I still ended up with 40 squares. And this isn't to naysay the book at all; I thought that 39 of the 40 designs were worth making, and I'm pretty picky. I'm sure someone else would love the square I didn't. But life's too short to crochet things that make you unhappy, right? 

One warning if you decide to attempt something similar someday: this project involves a lot of ends. I think it was worth it, but I did also cheat and crochet over my ends as much as possible. Just FYI, if you're someone who fears yarn ends. 

As you can see from these pictures of individual squares, some of the shapes ended up a little more wonky than square. The pictures from the book are pretty much perfect, so maybe that's just me, but I think blocking is worthwhile here. It also helps to compensate for slight size differences in the squares. And the good news is that once they're all attached together, the squares look nice and even. 

Once I had all my squares made and blocked, I arranged them all in in a 5 square by 8 square grid. Then I fiddled it for way too long to arrange them the way I liked before joining them together. I joined them by crocheting the flat slip stitch granny join with white yarn. Here's a handy tutorial by Craft Passion that does a great job explaining it, if you're not familiar with this joining method. Not every square had a border with the same number of stitches, so I had fudge it a little by adding extra stitches to some and skipping stitches on others, but as long as each join looks neat and not warped or ruffled, I call it a success. 

Then once all the squares were joined together, I added a simple single crochet border around the entire outside edge of the blanket. I used three rows of single crochet, with a [sc, ch 1, sc] in each corner space. 

And then it was done! Voila! I give you a bright, cheerful, cozy crocheted blanket. It might be too busy for some, but I love the jumble of colors and patterns. It's like a rectangle of sunshine, which is perfect for winter. Now to keep my kids from stealing it... 

I hope that you enjoyed reading about this fun blanket project! Thank you to Celine and Leonie for the awesome book! If you run across A Modern Guide to Granny Squares, I highly recommend checking it out. It's a lovely book with some really fun ideas in it. And if you have any comments or questions about this project, you can reach me in the comments section below, by email, or on social media. Happy hooking!

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The latest supersizing project I made was this giant bunny. I wanted a big bunny for my youngest's Easter basket, but I didn't want to redesign an entire thing, so I used my Beatrice the Bunny pattern (one of the Cookie Pals) instead. As you can see from the pictures, I ended up making the new bunny more than twice as tall as Beatrice, but I didn't change any of the stitches in the pattern. I just used a different yarn weight and a different hook size. The trick is that you want to make sure that your new gauge doesn't leave holes between the stitches, because it won't look very good and the stuffing will come out.

The original pattern uses a size E (3.5 mm) hook, but I ended up using a size J (6.0 mm) crochet hook. With a hook that large, regular worsted weight yarn was not going to work. Instead, I used super bulky blanket yarn. For things like hats, you can use two strands of worsted weight yarn held together to get a bulkier effect, but I find that doesn't work as well for things like amigurumi because it tends to leave large gaps. So a blanket yarn or another super bulky yarn is ideal for giant plushies. Depending on what yarn you have available, you may need to play around with different hook sizes to get the effect you want, but a good rule of thumb for plushies is that you need a hook size at least a couple sizes smaller than the hook recommended on the yarn label (depending on how loosely you crochet, you may need to size down more than that to get the stitches tight enough to avoid visible gaps). 

One thing that I've noticed when I'm scaling up a pattern is that it can exaggerate any shaping, since my stitches tend to be proportionally taller with the blanket yarn (just because of the way the yarn pulls when I use it). As you can in this side-by-side photo, the shaping on the head on the large bunny is way more distinct looking than it is on the small bunny (although, to be fair, the small bunny has been played with pretty hard over the last 4 years, so it's not exactly in prime condition anymore). This shaping difference isn't necessarily a problem, but it is something to be aware of, since it can change the proportions of your final product. 

I find that there are pros and cons to working with the super bulky yarn this way. The pros are that it's really soft and huggable and you can make something way bigger without very many stitches. My kids LOVE the plushies made with the blanket yarn, so they're definitely crowd-pleasers. The biggest con for me is that making tight stitches with blanket yarn hurts my hands; I crochet a LOT and very rarely have any issues with my hands hurting, but I have to take frequent breaks with this yarn because it definitely makes my hands sore (this yarn has a lot of resistance when you pull it, so you have to work a bit harder). Another con is that the super bulky yarn tends to be more expensive, and you'll need a lot more stuffing, larger safety eyes, etc, so your overall cost of materials can be higher per project. And if you're using a blanket yarn like I did, it can also be harder to see your stitches since the yarn is somewhat fuzzy; it's a lot easier to lose a stitch, etc, when you can't clearly read your stitches. 

It's also important to note that you won't be able to rely on the yardage from the original pattern. Changing up the gauge is definitely going to affect the amount you'll need. The smaller bunny used around 100 yards of the main body color while the larger bunny used closer to 175 yds. So you should definitely make sure you have more yarn (and way more stuffing!) on hand than the pattern calls for. You'll also need to make sure you have an extra large tapestry needle on hand (one with an eye large enough for super bulky yarn) so that you can sew any pieces together. 

I hope that this was helpful! If you have any other tips or tricks for supersizing crochet projects, I'd love to hear them! You can reach me in the comments section below, by email, or on social media, and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. Happy hooking!

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This blanket is made from panels of corner-to-corner moss stitch that shows off the self-striping of the yarn to maximum effect. Then I crocheted the panels together and added a border to create a lovely rainbow-hued blanket. This pattern is great because you don't really have to count stitches, you just keep going until it's the right size. Which also means that it's really easy to customize the size of your blanket. I made 7 panels out of 3.5 skeins for a baby-size blanket (each skein made 2 panels with a little bit left over), but you can easily add more panels or increase the size of the panels if you want something with different dimensions. You can also change up the colors and use a different self-striping yarn, or even use single-colored yarns. I'm picturing alternating solid colors or maybe even a rainbow of solid colors; it would look awesome either way. So, without further ado, let's check out the pattern.

If you're interested in an ad-free printable PDF version of this pattern, you can find one on Ravelry. (And a special thank you to everyone who supports my blog and keeps it running!)

Note: If you're new to c2c moss stitch, I highly recommend checking out my step-by-step photo tutorial to get you started. I also have a tutorial on making rectangles with the c2c moss stitch, which should be helpful, since that's what we'll be doing here. 

Stitch Glossary (all terms are US crochet terminology):
st(s) = stitches
ch = chain
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet

Materials: 

• 770 yds (460 g) of Red Heart Super Saver Stripes in Retro Stripe (I made 2 panels per skein, using 4 skeins total)
• 170 yds (75 g) Lion Brand Pound of Love in White
• Size J (6.0 mm) crochet hook
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Gauge:
2" =  6 rows of moss st
2" = 5 sc + 4 ch
It's okay if your gauge is different, since we're working with dimensions and not stitch counts. But your exact yardage will vary if your gauge is significantly different; I tend to crochet tightly, so you may want to size down a hook if you're a looser crocheter. 

Rainbow Panels (make 7):
Using the Retro Stripe yarn:
Ch 3
Row 1: sc in the third ch from the hook, turn
Row 2: ch 3, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the ch-3 space from Row 1, turn
Row 3: ch 3, sc in the first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the ch-3 space, turn
Row 4: ch 3, sc in the first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sc, ch 1] in each ch-1 space across, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the ch-3 space, turn
Repeat Row 4 until the short side measures just under 5" 
Row 5: ch 3, sc in the first ch-1 space, [ch 1, sc] in each ch-1 space across, [sc, hdc] in the ch-3 space, turn 
Row 6: ch 2, skip the first 2 sts, sc in the first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sc, ch 1] in each ch-1 space across, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the ch-3 space, turn
Row 7: ch 3, sc in the first ch-1 space, [ch 1, sc] in each ch-1 space across, sc in the ch-2 space, turn
Repeat Rows 6-7 until the longest side measures 25"
Row 8: ch 2, skip the first 2 sts, sc in the first ch-1 space, [ch 1, sc] in each ch-1 space across, [sc, hdc] in the ch-3 space, turn
Row 9: ch 2, skip the first 2 sts, sc in the first ch-1 space, [ch 1, sc] in each ch-1 space across, sc in the ch-2 space, turn
Repeat Row 9 until you have only 3 sc sts left
Row 10: ch 2, sc in the first ch-1 space, sc in the ch-2 space, turn
Row 11: ch 1, sc in ch-2 space
Fasten off. 

I recommend making all your colorful panels first before you add the white borders to each panel. That way you can lay out your panels and arrange them how you'd like before you add the border; the panels themselves don't have a right side/wrong side, but the border will, so you want to make sure they're facing the direction you want them in for the final blanket. I arranged mine in a chevron type pattern, alternating patches of colors, but you can arrange them however you'd like. 

Border row: Using the white yarn, make a standing sc in any corner. Sc evenly down each side, working about 1 st per row. The exact number of stitches doesn't matter as long as you're consistent from one rectangle to the next. I made 16 sc across the short ends and 75 sc across the long ends, but depending on your gauge, you may need more or fewer stitches; just make sure that you're not working too few and making the rectangle buckle or working too many and making the edges ruffle. When you get to a corner, work [sc, ch 1 sc] into each corner. When you get back to the first corner you made, ch 1, sc in the same space as the first sc and ss to join. 
Fasten off. 

Joining Panels:
If you prefer to use a different method, you may, but I used the zipper method. Here's a basic run down of how it works, with some step-by-step photos to help you out:

Lay the two panels you want to join side by side (see photo A). We will only be using the back loops of each panel. Insert your hook from front to back into the ch 1 of the corner on the first panel . Then insert your hook into the ch 1 of the corner on the second panel (see photo B). Tie a slip knot with the working end of the white yarn and slide onto the hook. You should now have 3 loops on your hook (see photo C). Yarn over (See photo D) and pull through all 3 loops (see photo E). 

Now insert the hook from front to back into the next st on the first panel (again, we're only using the back loops here!), then from front to back into the next st on the second panel. Yarn over and pull through all three loops. Repeat in the next set of stitches (see photo F) until you've attached every stitch together along the long sides of the panels. When you get to the end, be sure to attach the ch 1 of each corner together, then fasten off. 

​Border:
Row 1: Using the white yarn, make a standing sc in any corner. Sc in each st until you get to the corner. [Sc, ch 1] sc in the corner. Repeat until you get back to the first corner you made. When you get to a white joining section, I recommend making a sc in each ch 1 as well as working one extra sc in the middle of the join itself. Once you get back to the first corner, [ch 1, sc] in the same space as the first sc and ss to join
Rows 2-3: ch 1, sc in each st across and work a [sc, ch 1, sc] in each ch 1 corner space, ss to first sc to join
Fasten off and weave in any ends

You did it! Isn't it beautiful? I hope that you enjoyed making this crochet pattern. If you have any questions or comments about the pattern, I'd love to hear from you! You can reach me in the comment section below, by email, or on social media and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. Happy hooking! ​

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