By now, I'm sure you've probably at least dabbled in C2C crocheting using the diagonal box stitch. But did you know that you can work other crochet stitches from corner to corner (C2C)? It's no secret that the moss stitch is one of my favorites, especially for variegated yarn. So when I learned that you can work the moss stitch c2c, I was ALL over it. Now, there are already video tutorials out there, so if that's your thing, then google away. Personally, I'm all about the photo tutorials. I couldn't find one that I liked, so of course I had to make my own! (Note: I am in no way claiming to have invented this stitch; this is just a tutorial. Full credit for this stitch goes to whoever invented it. Edit: I'm told that Polly Plum is the one to thank for it, so be sure to go check out her site and send some crochet kudos her way!)
Since I'm all about hands-on crochet experience, this tutorial will also show you how to make a nifty washcloth while you learn! The c2c moss stitch is perfect for a washcloth because it has a nice texture and is fairly solid while still being stretchy (and it has a nice drape).
One small note: A few of the pictures at the beginning of the photo tutorial don't quite match the others. To make a long story short, I discovered an issue with a couple of the photos while I was editing them, so to make sure they weren't confusing, I reshot those few after I had finished. So don't let that throw you off! The stitches are still the same. Besides, I'm all about letting go of perfectionism lately, so it's all good, right? Now on to the tutorial!
This stitch can work at just about any gauge. But if you're following along with the washcloth tutorial, I made mine using:
st(s) = stitch(es)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
Here we go!
Ch 3. Pay attention to the 1st chain you made (shown with an arrow below), because that's where we're going to get started.
Sc in the 3rd st from the hook . Turn and ch 3. Now take a look at the ch 3 space leftover from the previous row, because that's where we're going next.
In the ch 3 space work a sc, then ch 1 and work another sc in the same spot. Turn and ch 3. When you look at the row you've just finished, pay special attention to the ch 1 space (shown with the arrow below). See how it's right between the "v"s of the sc stitches? From here on out, all of the increase rows will start by working into that space, so you'll get really good at recognizing it.
Sc in the first ch 1 space, then ch 1. [Sc, ch 1, sc] in the ch 3 space, just like you did in the previous row. Turn and ch 3. You're going to continue this basic pattern of working a [sc, ch 1] in each ch 1 space as you continue increasing, ending each increase row with a [sc, ch 1, sc]. In case that sounds confusing I've marked the spots where you'll be working stitches for the next row in the picture below. Or, if writing it out is more helpful for you, after the ch 3, you'll sc in the first ch 1 space from the previous row, ch 1, sc in the next ch 1 space, ch 1, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the ch 3 space at the end. I've highlighted the "v"s of the single crochet stitches below to help you get a better visual for where the ch 1 spaces are.
Like I said, you're going to continue the same increase pattern as your piece continues to grow. Here it is, written out one more time:
Ch 3, sc in the first ch 1 space, ch 1, [sc, ch 1] in each remaining ch 1 space, [sc, ch 1, sc] in the ch 3 space.
Continue increasing until the piece is the length/width you want. For a washcloth, I recommend increasing until it's 9" wide. Once you've reached this point, you're going to end the last increase row a little bit differently.
Instead of the usual [sc, ch 1, sc] in the ch 3 space, you'll work a [sc, hdc] (NO ch 1 space). This will create a cleaner corner
Now we're going to start decreasing, so it'll be a bit different from the increase rows. Begin with a ch 2. Skip the sc and hdc and work a [sc, ch 1] into the first ch 1 space (indicated with an arrow). Technically speaking, this is basically the same as the increase rows in that you're starting in the first ch 1 space, but because there are 2 stitches before it, it'll look a little different.
Continue to work [sc, ch 1] in the ch 1 spaces across the row.
When you get to the second to last ch 1 space, do NOT ch 1 after the sc.
Instead, immediately work a sc into the ch 3 space.
Turn and ch 2. As with the previous row, skip the first 2 sts and work the first [sc, ch 1] into the ch 1 space. [sc, ch 1] in each ch 1 space until the end. Sc in the final ch 1 space, do NOT ch 1, and sc in the ch 2 space.
Repeat the same decrease pattern. See how the other corners are forming?
The same decrease pattern continues until the last row, with one fewer sc in each row.
For the second to last row (when there are only 3 sc), you'll ch2, work a sc in the first ch 1 space (as before), then sc in the ch 2 space (do NOT ch 1 in between).
For the final row, turn, ch 1, and sc in the ch 2 space. Ta dah!
You can fasten it off and leave your square as is, or if you want a cleaner edge, sc around the border first. Then fasten off and weave in ends. Pretty, right?
Like other c2c methods, the c2c moss stitch can also be used to make a rectangle. It's basically a variation on the square. Essentially, when one side is your desired length, you'll decrease on that side while continuing to increase on the other side. I wanted to keep things simple so I didn't add it to this tutorial, but if there's any interest in a tutorial for it, just let me know! Edit: You can now find a photo tutorial for the rectangle here.
I hope this was helpful! I tried to explain it the way I would if you were all right here next to me crocheting (how cool would that be?), so hopefully it makes sense. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me in the comments section below or on social media. Happy hooking!
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