Cookie Pals: Piper the Panda

I'm excited to share the very LAST Cookie Pal with you all today! Over the last 10 weeks, I've shared patterns for a bear, a puppy, a cat, a monkey, a duck, a bunny, a cow, a pig, a platypus, and a sheep. Today I'm going to share the instructions for turning the base Cookie Pal pattern into an adorable panda. Last, but certainly not least, let's meet Piper the Panda. 

Piper is a firecracker, and not just because she's naturally sparkly. The one thing people always remember most about her? Her laugh. She has the special gift of finding genuine joy in the ordinary and firmly believes that every person she's ever met is extraordinary. Piper sees the potential in everything, especially in her class of sweet kindergarteners, who adore "Miss P." She loves silly songs, splashing in puddles, and wants you to know that you're beautiful when you smile. That's just the kind of panda she is. 

If you want a panda pal of your very own, just follow along with this patten. Like I've mentioned in the other posts, each Cookie Pal has the same basic construction as Beverly the Bear, meaning that the head, body, and legs are all worked in one piece. So I recommend checking out the pattern for Beverly, which has step-by-step photos showing how to make the body. ​​

If you'd like an ad-free printable PDF version of this pattern (along with all of the other 10 Cookie Pal patterns), you can find one on Ravelry. It includes both a step-by-step photo version and a text only version of the pattern for simpler printing. 

Stitch Glossary:
st(s) = stitch(es)
ch = chain
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = sc increase (work 2 sc in the same st)
dec = sc decrease (decrease over 2 sc sts)
hdc = half double crochet
hdc inc = hdc increase (work 2 hdc in the same st)
dc = double crochet

Materials:

• About 90-110 yds of I Love This Cotton! Yarn (or other aran weight yarn) in black and white
• Size E (3.5mm) crochet hook
• A tiny bit of black yarn
• Fiberfill stuffing
• 6mm safety eyes (2)
• Tapestry needle
• Optional: Stitch marker

Gauge:
2" = 10 sc sts
2" = 10.5 rows of sc

Note: Unless otherwise specified, this pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining or turning. I recommend using a stitch marker and moving it after each round to help you keep your place.

Eye Patch (make 2):
Using the black yarn:
Round 1: Make a magic circle and sc, hdc, dc twice, hdc, sc into the circle, pull taut to close, ss to first sc to close (6)
Round 2: ch 1, inc twice, (sc, hdc) in the next st, dc inc twice, (hdc, sc) in the next st, ss to join (12)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. 

Body:
Using white yarn:
Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle, pull taut to close (6)
Round 2: inc 6 times (12)
Round 3: [inc, sc] 6 times (18)
Round 4: [sc, inc, sc] 6 times (24)
Round 5: [inc, sc in the next 3 sts] 6 times (30)
Round 6: [sc in the next 2 sts, inc, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (36)
Round 7: [inc, sc in the next 5 sts] 6 times (42)
Rounds 8-11: sc around (42)
Round 12: [sc in the next 3 sts, inc, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times, sc in the next 21 sts (45)
Round 13: [inc, sc in the next 7 sts] 3 times, sc in the next 21 sts (48)
Round 14: [sc in the next 4 sts, inc, sc in the next 4 sts] 3 times, sc in the next 21 sts (51)
Rounds 15-17: sc around (51)
Round 18: [sc in the next 4 sts, dec, sc in the next 4 sts] 3 times, sc in the next 21 sts (48)
Round 19: [dec, sc in the next 7 sts] 3 times, sc in the next 21 sts (45)
Round 20: [sc in the next 3 sts, dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times, sc in the next 21 sts (42)
Round 21: [dec, sc in the next 5 sts] 6 times, (36)

Let's pause crocheting here and add on the face. You'll notice that rounds 12-20 have created a head that protrudes slightly on one side; this is the front of the head where you’ll be adding the face. Place a stitch marker through the loop on your hook to hold your place while you decorate. 

Sew the eye patches in place using the tapestry needle and long yarn tail. There should be one patch on each side of the face, across rounds 10-15, with the narrower section of the patch at the top. Place the 6 mm safety eyes through both the patches and the head layers between rounds 12 and 13 of the head, about 8 stitches apart. Using the tapestry needle and black yarn, stitch the mouth and nose between rows 14 and 17. I like to stitch over the nose 5 times to make it thicker than the mouth. Begin stuffing the head and continue to stuff as you go. Remove the stitch marker and place the yarn loop back on your hook so that you can resume crocheting.

Round 22: [sc in the next 2 sts, dec, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (30)
Round 23: [dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 6 times (24)
Round 24: [sc, dec, sc] 6 times (18)
Switch to black yarn
Round 25: [sc, inc, sc] 6 times (24)
Round 26: [inc, sc in the next 3 sts] 6 times (30)
Round 27: [sc in the next 2 sts, inc, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (36)
Rounds 28-29: sc around (36)
Switch back to white yarn
Rounds 30-34: sc around (36)
Switch back to black yarn
Round 35: sc around (36)
Round 36: [sc in the next 2 sts, dec, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (30)

Now we’re going to start forming the legs. Please pay careful attention to your stitch count as you go to ensure that both legs end up the same size.
​
Round 37: sc in the next 11 sts, skip the next 15 sts, sc in the last 4 sts (15)
Note: Once you finish the first 11 sts, you should be centered in the front of the panda. If you find that the face is slightly more to one side than the other, you can shift the stitches here to compensate (ex: sc in the first 9, skip the next 15, sc in the last 6). If it helps, you can mark the center stitch first. As long as you have 15 sts for each leg, the pattern will work. 
Rounds 38-41: sc around (15)
Round 42: [dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times (12)
Round 43: dec 6 times (12)
Finish stuffing leg. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining sts and pull taut to close. 

Now it’s time to make the second leg using the sts we skipped back in round 37. Join the black yarn (I like to join mine centered on the back side). There are a couple different options for starting the leg. I’m going to walk you through both and you can choose whichever you prefer.

First, the easiest option:
Leg Round 1: ss, sc in the next 14 sts (make sure you don’t crochet into the side of the first leg; you only want to use the 15 sts you skipped in round 37), sc into the ss you just made (15)
You’ll notice that this leaves a small hole between the legs. You can easily sew this shut later with the yarn tail leftover from the end of the leg and no one will ever notice it.
Leg Rounds 2-5: sc around (15)
Leg Round 6:  [dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times (12)
Continue to stuff the leg.
Leg Round 7: dec 6 times (12)
Finish stuffing leg. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining sts and pull taut to close. 

OR if you’re like me and are determined to sew as little as possible, you can use this second option for making the other leg:
Leg Round 1: ss, begin to sc in the next 14 sts. Once you reach the side of the other leg, pick up several loops along the side of the leg by inserting your hook, yarning over, and pulling up a loop. Leave all the loops on your hook. Then insert your hook in the next stitch where you actually want to make a sc, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through all of the loops on your hook to finish the st. Then sc around in the remaining sts and make your last sc into the ss you made at the beginning of the round (15)
This will close up the gap between the legs so that you won’t need to sew it shut later. And the rest of the leg is the same from here:
Leg Rounds 2-5: sc around (15)
Leg Round 6:  [dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times (12)
Continue to stuff the leg.
Leg Round 7: dec 6 times (6)
Finish stuffing leg. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining sts and pull taut to close.

Arm (Make 2):
Using black yarn:
Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle,  pull taut to close (6)
Round 2: inc 6 times (12)
Round 3: sc around (12)
Round 4: [dec, sc] 4 times (8)
Rounds 5-7: sc around (8)
Begin stuffing. Continue to stuff as you go.
Round 8: [dec, sc in the next 2 sts] 2 times (6)
Round 9: sc around (6)
Finish stuffing. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining sts and pull taut to close. Then sew one arm to each side of the body somewhere around rounds 25-28.  

Ear (Make 2):
Using black:
Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 3 sc into the circle, pull taut to close, turn (3)
Round 2: ch 1, inc 3 times, turn (6)
Round 3: ch 1, [hdc inc, hdc] 3 times (9)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. 
Curve the ears slightly at the base to make a gentle “C” shape and sew in place using the tapestry needle and the long yarn tails on both sides of the head across rounds 6-10. 

Tail:
Using white:
Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle, pull taut to close (6)
Round 2: [inc, sc] 3 times (9)
Round 3: sc around (9)
Ss to even off. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. 
​Using the tapestry needle and long yarn tail, sew in place (centered on the back of the body across rounds 33-35). 

Weave in any remaining ends. ​

You did it! Hooray! You've now finished your own cute panda. I hope that you enjoyed making Piper! If you have any questions or comments about the pattern, you can reach me in the comments section below, by email, or on social media. If you end up making a little monkey, I'd love to see a picture, so please share. I'm working on getting the patterns for all of the Cookie Pal accessories posted, so keep an eye out for those soon (thank you to everyone who has been waiting so patiently for those!). And don't forget that the PDF with all 11 Cookie Pals in one place is available on Ravelry. Happy Hooking! 

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​***You're welcome to do whatever you'd like to with finished products made from this pattern but if you do sell them, I ask that you link back to my page. You may not copy this pattern, repost it anywhere (either altered or in its original form), or claim it as your own. You may not use any photos on this site for your own use. ***