Cookie Pals: Pedro the Puppy

It's time to meet our second Cookie Pal! (If you have no idea what a Cookie Pal is, make sure to check out this post first.) Last week we met Beverly the Bear, who was actually the last Cookie Pal I made. Today we're going to meet the very first Cookie Pal I ever designed, way back when: Pedro the Puppy! 

Pedro is a puppy with a heart of gold, a huge imagination and—according to his mother—"so much energy so early in the morning." Pedro loves books, especially stories of adventure and daring deeds. When he can't find someone to read to him, you can find Pedro in the dress up trunk, outfitting himself for his latest adventure. His favorite costume by far is Dogbeard the Pirate. With his eyepatch and toy sword, he is always up for some swashbuckling. So dust off your treasure map and come join Pedro on the seven seas! (And remember: "X marks the spot!")

If you'd like to make your own adorable puppy pal, just follow along with this fun pattern! Pedro has the same construction as Beverly the Bear, meaning that the head, body, and legs are all worked in one piece. (Hooray for minimal sewing!) If you'd like to reference the step-by-step photos for the body, be sure to check out the pattern for Beverly.

​If you'd like an ad-free printable PDF version of this pattern (along with all of the other 10 Cookie Pal patterns), you can find one on Ravelry. It includes both a step-by-step photo version and a text only version of the pattern for simpler printing. 

You can find the accessory patterns here. 

Stitch Glossary:
st(s) = stitch(es)
ch = chain
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
inc = sc increase (work 2 sc in the same st)
dec = sc decrease (decrease over 2 sc sts)

Materials:

• About 90-110 yds of I Love This Cotton! Yarn (or other aran weight yarn)
• Size E (3.5mm) crochet hook
• A tiny bit of black yarn
• Fiberfill stuffing
• 6mm safety eyes (2)
• Tapestry needle
• Optional: Stitch marker

Gauge:
2" = 10 sc sts
2" = 10.5 rows of sc

Note: Unless otherwise specified, this pattern is worked in continuous rounds without joining or turning. I recommend using a stitch marker and moving it after each round to help you keep your place.

Body:
Using the main body color:
Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle, pull taut to close (6)
Round 2: inc 6 times (12)
Round 3: [inc, sc] 6 times (18)
Round 4: [sc, inc, sc] 6 times (24)
Round 5: [inc, sc in the next 3 sts] 6 times (30)
Round 6: [sc in the next 2 sts, inc, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (36)
Round 7: [inc, sc in the next 5 sts] 6 times (42)
Rounds 8-11: sc around (42)
Round 12: [sc in the next 3 sts, inc, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times, sc in the next 21 sts (45)
Round 13: [inc, sc in the next 7 sts] 3 times, sc in the next 21 sts (48)
Round 14: [sc in the next 4 sts, inc, sc in the next 4 sts] 3 times, sc in the next 21 sts (51)
Rounds 15-17: sc around (51)
Round 18: [sc in the next 4 sts, dec, sc in the next 4 sts] 3 times, sc in the next 21 sts (48)
Round 19: [dec, sc in the next 7 sts] 3 times, sc in the next 21 sts (45)
Round 20: [sc in the next 3 sts, dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times, sc in the next 21 sts (42)
Round 21: [dec, sc in the next 5 sts] 6 times, (36)

Let's pause crocheting here and add on the face. You'll notice that rounds 12-20 have created a head that protrudes slightly on one side; this is the front of the head where you’ll be adding the face. Place a stitch marker through the loop on your hook to hold your place while you decorate. 

Place the 6 mm safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, about 8 stitches apart. Using the tapestry needle and black yarn, stitch the mouth and nose, between rows 14 and 17. I like to stitch over the nose 5 times to make it thicker than the mouth. Begin stuffing the head and continue to stuff as you go. Remove the stitch marker and place the yarn loop back on your hook so that you can resume crocheting.

Round 22: [sc in the next 2 sts, dec, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (30)
Round 23: [dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 6 times (24)
Round 24: [sc, dec, sc] 6 times (18)
Round 25: [sc, inc, sc] 6 times (24)
Round 26: [inc, sc in the next 3 sts] 6 times (30)
Round 27: [sc in the next 2 sts, inc, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (36)
Rounds 28-35: sc around (36)
Round 36: [sc in the next 2 sts, dec, sc in the next 2 sts] 6 times (30)

Now we’re going to start forming the legs. Please pay careful attention to your stitch count as you go to ensure that both legs end up the same size.
​
Round 37: sc in the next 11 sts, skip the next 15 sts, sc in the last 4 sts (15)
Note: Once you finish the first 11 sts, you should be centered in the front of the puppy. If you find that the face is slightly more to one side than the other, you can shift the stitches here to compensate (ex: sc in the first 9, skip the next 15, sc in the last 6). If it helps, you can mark the center stitch first. As long as you have 15 sts for each leg, the pattern will work. 
Rounds 38-41: sc around (15)
Round 42: [dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times (12)
Round 43: dec 6 times (12)
Finish stuffing leg. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining sts and pull taut to close. 

Now it’s time to make the second leg using the sts we skipped back in round 37. Join the yarn (I like to join mine centered on the back side). There are a couple different options for starting the leg. I’m going to walk you through both and you can choose whichever you prefer.

First, the easiest option:
Leg Round 1: ss, sc in the next 14 sts (make sure you don’t crochet into the side of the first leg; you only want to use the 15 sts you skipped in round 37), sc into the ss you just made (15)
You’ll notice that this leaves a small hole between the legs. You can easily sew this shut later with the yarn tail leftover from the end of the leg and no one will ever notice it.
Leg Rounds 2-5: sc around (15)
Leg Round 6:  [dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times (12)
Continue to stuff the leg.
Leg Round 7: dec 6 times (12)
Finish stuffing leg. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining sts and pull taut to close. 

OR if you’re like me and are determined to sew as little as possible, you can use this second option for making the other leg:
Leg Round 1: ss, begin to sc in the next 14 sts. Once you reach the side of the other leg, pick up several loops along the side of the leg by inserting your hook, yarning over, and pulling up a loop. Leave all the loops on your hook. Then insert your hook in the next stitch where you actually want to make a sc, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through all of the loops on your hook to finish the st. Then sc around in the remaining sts and make your last sc into the ss you made at the beginning of the round (15)
This will close up the gap between the legs so that you won’t need to sew it shut later. And the rest of the leg is the same from here:
Leg Rounds 2-5: sc around (15)
Leg Round 6:  [dec, sc in the next 3 sts] 3 times (12)
Continue to stuff the leg.
Leg Round 7: dec 6 times (6)
Finish stuffing leg. Fasten off, leaving a yarn tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining sts and pull taut to close.

Arm (Make 2):
Using the main body color:
Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle,  pull taut to close (6)
Round 2: inc 6 times (12)
Round 3: sc around (12)
Round 4: [dec, sc] 4 times (8)
Rounds 5-7: sc around (8)
Begin stuffing. Continue to stuff as you go.
Round 8: [dec, sc in the next 2 sts] 2 times (6)
Round 9: sc around (6)
Finish stuffing. Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing.

Using a tapestry needle, thread the yarn tail through the front loops of the remaining sts and pull taut to close. Then sew one arm to each side of the body somewhere around rounds 25-28.  

Ear (make 2):
Using the accent color: 
Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 6 sc into the circle, pull taut to close (6)
Round 2: inc 6 times (12)
Round 3: sc around (12)
Round 4: [inc, sc] 6 times (18)
Rounds 5-7: sc around (18)
Round 8: [dec, sc] 6 times (12)
Rounds 9-11: sc around (12)
Round 12: [dec, sc] 4 times (8)
Rounds 13-14: sc around (8)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail. Flatten the ear and do not stuff. 

Sew in place using the tapestry needle and the long yarn tails on both sides of the head between rounds 6 and 7. 

Tail: 
Note: If you’re having a hard time working the tail because it’s so narrow, you can work in the front loops only (the stitches will be looser that way) OR you can increase the diameter to 5 or 6 sts wide (it will just look slightly wider). ​
Using the accent color:
Round 1: Make a magic circle and work 4 sc into the circle, pull taut to close (4)
Rounds 2-4: sc around (4)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. 

Using the tapestry needle and long yarn tail, sew in place (centered on the back of the body across rounds 33-34). Weave in remaining ends. 

And you're done! I hope that you enjoyed making Pedro the Puppy! If you have any questions or comments about the pattern, you can reach me in the comments section below, by email, or on social media. If you end up making a cute puppy friend, I'd love to see a picture, so please share. And don't forget to check back next week for the next Cookie Pal! (If you don't want to wait, the PDF with all 11 Cookie Pals in one place is available on Ravelry.) Happy Hooking! 

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***You're welcome to do whatever you'd like to with finished products made from this pattern but if you do sell them, I ask that you link back to my page. You may not copy this pattern, repost it anywhere (either altered or in its original form), or claim it as your own. You may not use any photos on this site for your own use. ***