Stained Glass Square

It's time to come clean: I've been holding out on you. I have to confess that I've been holding onto this finished design for way too long. I was hoping to make something seriously impressive (like a blanket) with this pattern, but then everything snowballed and now it's suddenly 2019?!? Since I'm lucky to stay awake long enough to crochet a row or two of anything these days, I think it's only fair that I share this gorgeous square pattern with you all instead of making you wait for something bigger. Because this square right here is way too pretty to keep to myself anymore. So, without further ado, let me introduce you to the Stained Glass Square. 

I will admit that this isn't the simplest square pattern around (I'm pretty sure Queen Granny Square will forever hold that title; long may she reign). But it is doable! The key to getting these squares to turn out right is to be as precise as possible. The pattern will list specific locations where you should insert your hook or where you should start a round of stitches; I didn't just add those because I was feeling bored that day. So make sure you follow the pattern carefully! I did my best to illustrate each step with pictures (and arrows if needed) and wrote things out as clearly as I could. But if you're still stuck, don't panic. Feel free to ask questions and I'll do my best to help you out. Once you've got one finished, you'll see that it's not actually very intimidating. I believe in you! 

I also have a couple of helpful tips before we begin: 

• Pay attention to your gauge, particularly to the height of your stitches. For most of this pattern, the gauge isn't super critical; it'll just impact the size of your finished square (mine is an 8" square as written). But you may run into issues in Round 9 when working the extended stitch. I tend to work tight stitches and find that I need to start with 4 loops on my hook to get the right height for the stitch. If you're a looser crocheter and find that the extended stitch is too tall, you can decrease its height by starting with 3 loops on your hook instead. The pattern should still work just fine. 
• I was just looking it up and apparently the multicolored yarn I used has been discontinued (which is super sad, because I love it). If you're not lucky enough to already have some in your stash, you can substitute another multicolored medium (4) weight yarn. Feel free to contact me if you're wondering if a certain yarn looks like a good match. 
• If you want the edges to be extra straight (for sewing together into a blanket, etc), I would recommend blocking your finished squares. I'm planning to block mine once I decide what I'm going to do with my squares/how many I'll need so I can block them all at once. 
• To reduce the number of ends you'll have to weave in at the end, I recommend crocheting over your yarn tails as you go. 

If you'd like an ad-free printable PDF version of this pattern, you can find one on Ravelry. 
​
Edit: I've redesigned Rounds 9 and 10 to help make the lining up of the triangles more foolproof, regardless of your gauge. The finished square still looks the same and has the same dimensions. 

Materials:

• Yarn Bee Aurora Borealis in Dusk Dance (I can make 7 squares from 1 skein)
• I Love This Yarn! in Black
• Size J (6.0 mm) crochet hook
• Tapestry needle
• Stitch marker

Stitch Glossary:
st(s) = stitch(es)
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
inc = sc increase (work 2 sc into the same st)
fpsc = front post sc
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
dc inc= dc increase (work 2 dc into the same st)
fpdc = front post dc
tr = treble crochet (aka triple crochet)*
dtr = double treble crochet* 
fptrtr= front post triple treble crochet* (the stitch begins by yarning over 4 times)
​blo = back loop only
 
*Note: if you're not familiar with the taller crochet stitches, I recommend this blog post over on Moogly as a quick reference. 

Gauge:
4" = 13 dc sts
4" = 8 rows of dc sts

Starting with the multicolored yarn:
Round 1: Make a magic circle, ch 2, work 12 dc into the circle, ss to the first dc and pull taut to close (12)
Round 2: ch 2, dc inc around, ss to join, fasten off (24)

Switch to the black yarn (you can attach it anywhere)
Round 3: [inc, sc] around, ss to join (36)
Round 4: ch 5, skip the first st, [dc in the next st, ch 2, skip the next st] around, ss to the 3rd ch to join (18 ch-2 spaces)
Remove the hook and insert a stitch marker into the working loop to hold it in place. We'll come back to the black yarn in a couple rounds. 
Pay special attention to the skipped stitch (in the little "windows" you've created), since that's where we'll be working for the next round. I marked it with an arrow in the picture below just in case it's helpful. 

Switch back to the multicolored yarn. You'll be working this round in front of the ch 2 spaces from Round 4
Round 5:​ Work a standing dc into the blo of one of the skipped sts from Round 4, dc in the same st in the blo, ch 1, [dc inc in the blo of the next skipped st, ch 1] around, ss to join, fasten off (36 dc, 18 ch-1 spaces)
At this point you may be thinking, "Hey! What happened to those cool little windows we just made? Why did we cover them up?" Fear not, my friend. they're about to be the MVPs of the next round. 

For the next round, you'll be working fpdc stitches around the dc stitches from Round 4 as shown below. This will pull the black dc stitches to the front to set up the cool little rectangles. 

Remove the stitch marker and move your hook back into the black loop to pick up the black yarn again. ​
Round 6: [fpdc around the dc from Round 4, sc in the next 2 sts of Round 5) around, ss to join, fasten off. (54)

Switch back to the multicolored yarn. 
Round 7: Work a standing dc into the blo of one of the fpdc stitches from Round 6, dc in the same st in the blo, dc in the next 8 sts in blo, [dc inc in blo of next st, dc in blo of the next 8 sts] around, ss to join (60)

Round 8: ch 2, [dc inc, dc in the next 5 sts] around, ss to join, fasten off (70)

Switch back to the black yarn
Round 9:​ sc in the same st, sc in the next 2 sts, fptrtr into the black posts directly in front of and behind the black post directly beneath your last sc st (the posts you should work into are indicated with arrows in the picture below)...

...then sc in the next 8 sts. This will have created a little black triangle shape. Now you'll repeat the process by working fptrtr into the black posts directly in front of and behind the black post directly beneath your current sc (the black post behind will be the same black post you've already worked into), then sc in the next 8 sts...

...continue to [work 2 fptrtr into the black posts in front of and behind the black post directly beneath your last sc, then sc in the next 8 sts around] 1 more time, then work 2 fptrtr into the black posts in front of and behind the black post directly beneath your last sc, then sc in the next 7 sts around, then [work 2 fptrtr into the black posts in front of and behind the black post directly beneath your last sc, then sc in the next 8 sts around] 4 times, then work 2 fptrtr into the last set of front and back black posts, then sc in the last 4 sts, ss to join (9 triangles, 70 sc)

So, to recap (with less explanatory text): sc in the same st, sc in the next 2 sts, [work 2 fptrtr into the black posts, sc in the next 8 sts] 3 times, work 2 fptrtr into the black posts, sc in the next 7 sts, [work 2 fptrtr into the black posts, sc in the next 8 sts] 4 times, work 2 fptrtr into the black posts, sc in the next 4 sts, ss to join

Don't worry if your circle's a little wonky at this point. The fptrtr sts have a tendency to pull toward the center, but we'll straighten them out in the next round by working fpsc around the top point of the fptrtr "triangle" as shown below. 

Round 10: ch 1, sc in the next 3 sts, [fpsc around the fptrtr sts from Round 9, sc in the next 8 sts] 3 times, fpsc around the frptrtr sts from Round 9, sc in the next 7 sts, [fpsc around the fptrtr sts from Round 9, sc in the next 8 sts] 4 times, fpsc around the fptrtr sts from Round 9, sc in the next 3 sts, inc, ss to join (80)

Doesn't that look better? Now we're going to square it off. 
Round 11: ch 1, sc in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 2 sts, tr in the next 2 sts, dtr, [dtr twice, ch 1, dtr twice] in the next st to create a corner, [dtr, tr in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 5 sts, hdc in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 2 sts, tr in the next 2 sts, dtr, {dtr twice, ch 1, dtr twice} in the next st to create a corner] 3 times, dtr, tr in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 2sts, hdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, ss to join (92, 4 ch-1 spaces)
Round 12: ch 1, sc around, working [sc, ch 1, sc] into each corner space, ss to join (100 sc, 4 ch-1 spaces)
​Fasten off and weave in any remaining ends. 

Whew! You did it! Give yourself a pat on the back and take a minute to admire your beautiful square. Well done! 

 to I hope that the pictures and instructions were easy to follow. If you have any additional questions, feel free to ​comment in the comments section below, send me an email, or contact me on social media. Happy hooking! 

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***You're welcome to do whatever you'd like to with finished products made from this pattern but if you do sell them, I ask that you link back to my page. You may not copy this pattern, repost it anywhere (either altered or in its original form), or claim it as your own. You may not use any photos on this site for your own use. ***